Since leaving Federal Hill for the other side of the pond a few years back, we admit we don’t make it back to the Hill very often. Instead, we stay close to home and frequent our regular spots. After walking into Ryleigh’s Oyster [36 E. Cross St. – 410.539.2093] recently, we agreed we may need to branch out more.

We remember the Ryleigh’s of a few short years ago, prior to their recent rehab, and even before that when it was still Sissons, Maryland’s first pub brewery. We were impressed at what we encountered: the place has been all but gutted, and is now wide open. The old beer vats have been removed, and the exposed brick archways now keep watch over the seating area in the middle of the building and the bars with flat screens to each side. The place has a nice vibe to it, too: classy, yet laid back. Music playing, and people laughing. In a word: Enjoyable.

After we got over how great the place looked, we began our meal. We were told that about half of Ryleigh’s Oyster menu changes every two weeks, and what constitutes a menu staple here is quite different than most places (Chicken Chesapeake Sandwich, $10, for example).

The menu is the creation of Executive Chef, Patrick Marrow, who came in along with the rehab last April. Ryleigh’s was serious: they even rehabbed the chef position!

For the most part, the menu features starters and sandwiches in the $8-$12 range, entrees are reasonably priced (just two over $20), and you can choose from 5 to 7 varieties of oysters. On this night, though, they were featuring the “Chef’s Selection Night” of small plates ($10) and “Prix Fixe Menu” ($20).

Our server, Chris, recommended the Adelsheim pinot gris ($10/glass) which was a fine, smooth choice with the first small plate, the won ton jumbo shrimp (Erin’s favorite on the night). It was the first in a parade of not only quality dishes, but fantastic plate presentations.

Round two brought the pan seared scallops with cauliflower puree and buerre rouge. We’ll be the first to admit we’re not scallop experts, but we thought these have to rank extremely high in the world of primo scallop eating.

Nearing the halfway point, we then switched gears with a glass of pino noir from Willamette Valley Vineyards ($11) which was right on the money with an arugula salad that featured duck confit, goat cheese, and wild mushrooms.

In the clean up spot was the pan roasted rockfish with roasted pineapple and chipotle foam (Chris’s favorite). It’s amazing how those distinct tastes come together to make magic. Again, the presentation was outstanding, the portion was generous, and we were quite pleased.

We finished off the evening by splitting the crème brule. The recommendation here: Order it. Don’t be shy. Just Do it.

We walked out of Ryleigh’s Oyster impressed with the rehab, the food, and the vibe. We also praised the work of Chef Patrick and everyone from this establishment that made it what it is today: a great reinvention of an established neighborhood bar/restaurant.